No Second-Rate Wines From These Vineyards

Courtesy of Sheila and Bennet Bodenstein
Springlfield (Mo.) News Leader

Greg Norman Estates is a California winemaker that is taking advantage of the fruit grown in vineyards south of the better known grape growing districts. Sourcing their grapes in Santa Barbara, Paso Robles and Lake County allows the winemaker to use fruit with very big flavors.

Normally, these counties are famous for their table wines: nothing spectacular, just good, solid wines to accompany meals. After all, isn't that what we're really looking for in a wine? If we weren't, we would be plunking down $100-plus per bottle. Since most of us do not want to take such a deep plunge into a bottle of wine, we settle and buy the "also rans." But are they "also rans?"

Today, winemaking and grape-growing techniques have allowed winemakers to produce excellent wines from almost any grape regardless of its origin. Several years ago in France, the area called the Midi was considered unacceptable for wine-grape growing. Today it is the site of vast vineyards that are producing the preponderance of wines consumed in France and also exported.

The southern counties of California produce grapes that are more in line with the mainstream American taste than do the northern counties, which tend to produce more austere wine. Sales prove Americans like full-fruit wines.

Greg Norman Estates is one of those winemakers that directs its style to the preferences of mainstream America and produces big, easy-to-drink, fruit-flavored wines. The wines are also affordable. What more could a wine lover ask?

Greg Norman Estates 2005 Paso Robles Petite Sirah ($15). Petite Sirah is just coming into its own in this country. While the variety is very popular in southeastern France, the variety languished as an oddity, being made mostly for sale in a winery's gift shop. Somehow, the variety has exploded onto the marketplace and is capturing the fancy of wine lovers.

This wine is a beautiful example of the expansiveness of this variety. Dark summer berries and chocolate dominate the aroma and flavor with obvious hints of vanilla and oak. The finish, one of the outstanding features of this wine, is long and laced with cracked black pepper. The memory of this wine will linger.

Greg Norman Estates 2006 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay ($15). This is an exceptional wine whose aroma is overflowing with vanilla, melon, clove, honey and spice. The flavor prominently displays apple, orange blossom, vanilla and the summer fruits typical of chardonnays from Santa Barbera County. The summer fruits and the apple carry over to the long, complex finish and are complemented with hints of tropical fruits.

This wine also has that soft, buttery mouth feel sought after by winemakers. This wine is a delight.

Greg Norman Estates 2005 Lake County Zinfandel ($15). This winemaker does wonders with the zinfandel grape. This is a full-bodied zinfandel without the pronounced strawberry flavor and aroma typical of the variety. This wine offers an aroma featuring coffee, chocolate, plums, blackberry licorice and pepper. The exceptionally long finish reflects the cherry and berry flavors. This zinfandel certainly got our attention.